Africa

Togo

At a glance

Lomé

Lomé is compact, coastal, and full of character, sitting right next to the Ghana border, with the Benin border only about 45km away. The city blends German colonial traces with local traditions including the Ewe which make up around 30% of the population.

Getting around & language

The city is relaxed and easy to navigate, with Gozem widely used as the local Uber alternative. Although French is the official language, you can hear Ewe and a bit of English, with many people more comfortable speaking Pidgin than formal British English.

The famous Nana Benz

Lomé’s Grand Marché tells another story: the rise of the “Nana Benz,” a group of powerful businesswomen who dominated the textile trade in 1960s-1980s and became icons of economic success and female entrepreneurship in West Africa.

Tradition, history & trade

From the Akodessawa Fetish Market to Togoville, Vodún traditions remain central, with shrines, consultations, and spiritual practices still active. Around 33% of the population practice traditional religion which the most famous coming from the Yoruba people.

A visual journey through Togo

Lomé

Beach in Lomé, Togo — **The beach in Lomé is pleasant, but not exceptional.** It could be better organised, but seeing different types of people at the beach gives it life and local character. There are horseback riding opportunities along the beach as well as mini markets and restaurants.

Fufu with mutton peanut sauce and gboma in Lomé — **This was a very traditional and very good Togolese meal.** Fufu served with mutton in peanut sauce, with gboma (spinach leaves) on the side. It is not common to mix these difference sauces, I felt creative.

Awooyo Special beer in Togo — **Togo feels like the beer capital of West Africa.** There are many different types of beer produced locally, with a clear German influence in the beer culture.

Djama beer cans in Togo — **Beer is often called “pils” in Togo, just like in German.** Djama is one of the local beer brands, and the variety of Togolese beers is impressive.

Courtyard at Residence Hoteliere Oceane in Lomé — **Residence Hôtelière Océane really understands travellers.** Apart from the excellent location in the middle of everything, it was still in a quiet area with an incredible inside patio, you have a mix of European and African influences. The hotel offers free laundry, airport pickup, and even the hotel WhatsApp number on the keychain.

Sacred Heart Cathedral in Lomé — **Sacred Heart Cathedral is the cathedral of Lomé.** Built by the Germans, it stands in the middle of the Grand Market area, where you can find almost everything.

Interior of Sacred Heart Cathedral in Lomé — **The inside of Sacred Heart Cathedral is calm and beautiful.** Its red-and-white exterior is striking, but the interior also has a strong sense of history and space.

Akodessawa Fetish Market

Effigies at Akodessawa Fetish Market in Lomé — **Effigies are used for different spiritual purposes.** Some are connected to protection, binding couples together, or addressing specific problems through consultation.

Voodoo objects at Akodessawa Fetish Market in Lomé — **The Vodún are believed to manifest physically in shrines.** Offerings are made to them, and consultations with priests are a central part of the market experience.

Aného

Side view of Miadjoe by the water in Aného — **This is a side view of Miadjoe by the water.** The sandy shoreline and stilted structure reflect the relaxed coastal atmosphere of Aného and the restaurant Miadjoe.

Fish dish at Miadjoe in Aného, Togo — **At Miadjoe, I ate sifio de poisson.** It is a fresh fish broth, often served with pinon, a spicy cassava semolina, and is a speciality of the Aného region.

Togoville

Conflict of Generations statues in Togoville — **These statues are called “Conflict of Generations”.** They show a young boy and an older gentleman in conversation, symbolising the disagreements and misunderstandings between generations. The younger figure’s modern clothes and relaxed posture would traditionally be seen as disrespectful towards the elder.

Statue of the Virgin Mary in Togoville — **Togoville Cathedral is one of the town’s main landmarks.** The site includes a shrine to the Virgin Mary, marking where she is said to have appeared in the early 1970s. Due to this, Pope John Paul II visited Togoville in 1985 to honour this shrine.

Interior of Togoville Cathedral — **The Notre Dame Du Lac Cathedral was built in 1910.** It adds another layer to Togoville’s identity, where Catholic heritage and voodoo traditions exist side by side. The cathedral also pays hommage to the Martyrs of Uganda, a group of 45 Anglican and Roman Catholic Ugandans who were executed between 1885 and 1887 by Mwanga II in the context of the Scramble for Africa.

Barter market statues in Togoville — **This is Togoville’s barter market.** People still trade goods here without using currency after more than a century, and the bronze statues reflect that continuing tradition of exchange. The market only operates on Wednesday and Saturday mornings from 9am till noon.

Voodoo protector statue at Togoville market — **This voodoo statue is the protector of the market.** It reflects the spiritual importance of the market space and Togoville’s strong connection to voodoo culture.

Voodoo statue for women in Togoville — **This voodoo statue is connected to women.** Togoville has several voodoo shrines, but only initiated people can enter them. This statue has one such shrine in front of it.

House of Slaves

Exterior of Maison des Esclaves in Agbodrafo — **The house of slaves is a small but powerful historical site.** The building needs renovation, but the story it holds is painful and worth listening to.

Interior room at Maison des Esclaves in Agbodrafo — **This room shows the contrast at the heart of the site.** Above, the "owners" discussed business matters, while enslaved people were hidden and confined below.

Hidden confinement space at Maison des Esclaves in Agbodrafo — **The hidden space below the house is extremely difficult to see.** Enslaved people were forced into this small area and, according to the guide, were sometimes fed only once every three days.

Travel notes

Getting around & tours

Lomé is easy to move around. Gozem works well as the local Uber alternative, and there are many mototaxis across the city. If you stay in the city centre, you can walk to most places quite easily. You can also travel around Lomé and even across Togo independently without much difficulty. I used Mowokitours and had a great experience with Jérémie, who was knowledgeable and made the trip very smooth.

Food

Nopégali Boulevard is a fantastic place to try local food. Meals are usually around 5,000 CFA, service is quick and efficient, and there is both a standard eating area downstairs and a more organised VIP section upstairs with air conditioning, the food itself is the same but you may pay an extra 1,000 CFA for the experience.

Akodessawa Fetish Market

The market is not only about objects; the main experience is the consultation with Vodún priests and understanding the role of shrines, offerings, and spiritual practice. Entry is around 5,000 CFA (3,000 CFA entrance and 2,000 CFA for pictures).

House of Slaves

If you do not speak French, the visit is worth doing with a guide or translator. The story is painful and important as its a good place to visit and learn more about slavery in Togo. But the site could be better organised and would benefit from some renovation. I hope that funds can be raised to preserve this place.