Africa

Cabo Verde

At a glance

Nine inhabited islands

Cabo Verde is an Atlantic archipelago with 9 inhabited islands (10 overall). Santiago is the largest, and it is home to Praia, the country’s capital. I visited just after the rainy season, when Santiago was very green.

Portuguese and Criolu

Portuguese is the official language, while Criolu is widely spoken in everyday life. For the Cape Verdeans, Criolu is a very important part of their identity and can be different depending on the island.

Cidade Velha’s history

On Santiago, Cidade Velha was the archipelago’s original capital and the first European colonial outpost in the tropics. It is Cabo Verde’s only UNESCO World Heritage site.

Two island groups

The islands are often grouped as Barlavento in the north with 6 islands and Sotavento in the sout with 4h.

A visual journey through Santiago Island

Around Santiago Island

A village spread across a green hillside on Santiago Island — **I looked out over a village tucked into the green hills.** Houses are scattered across the hillside, with the mountains rising behind them. You will see spectacular views like this as you travel across the island.

The settlement of Principal and the Malagueta reservoir and dam in a green Santiago valley — **I could see Principal and Malagueta reservoir below.** From this viewpoint, I spotted Principal in the valley and the reservoir with its dam. The green hills made this one of my favourite views on the drive around Santiago.

Crocodile-shaped volcanic rocks along the coast of Santiago Island, Cabo Verde — **I spotted a crocodile’s head in the rocks.** At first glance, this dark rock formation looked like a crocodile’s head and its shape stands out against the water, with grass growing along the shore above it.

Coastline on Santiago Island where sand is visible beneath the water — **The coastline is beautiful, but the missing sand is hard to ignore.** At many beaches, people have taken sand for construction, leaving stretches like this with sand under the water but little on the shore. The government has since passed laws banning sand removal. I thought it was sad to see, especially along such a beautiful coast.

A large Christian cross under construction near Assomada, Santiago — **A new cross is being built above Santiago’s interior.** As I entered the city of Assomada, near the centre of the island, I saw this large Christian cross under construction. Once finished, it will overlook the mountain views across Santiago’s interior, there is something with Portuguese speaking countries and Christian crosses (Brasil, Portugal & Angola all have one).

Praia

People walking along 5 de Julho shopping street in Plateau, Praia — **I walked along 5 de Julho in Plateau.** Plateau is one of the city’s popular areas for visitors, with plenty of shops and places to eat. The street is named after 5 July, Cabo Verde’s Independence Day, so it’s a good place to explore and soak up the city.

Colourful football mural in Praia celebrating Cabo Verde — **The football mural reminded me how much the team means to people.** Cabo Verde’s World Cup success brought the team plenty of attention, and I saw lots of people wearing the national shirt. I bought one myself!

Portrait murals of poets along Rampa dos Poetas in Praia — **I found a stretch of wall dedicated to poets.** Rampa dos Poetas features portraits of Cabo Verdean writers, along with a line by poet Jorge Barbosa. It turned an ordinary walk into a chance to discover a little of the country’s literary culture.

Billboard for a Universal Church event beside a green hillside in Praia — **This poster announced a special Sunday at the Universal Church.** The Brazilian church has a visible presence in Cabo Verde, with churches and event posters around the country. This billboard announced a visit from the head of the church in Brazil, a reminder of Brazil’s influence here.

Large letters set against a rocky, landscaped hillside in Praia — **These large letters made me stop for a closer look.** Set against a rocky hillside with greenery and flowers, they made a striking scene as I passed through this part of the city.

Turquoise water and dark volcanic rocks along Praia’s coastline — **I liked the contrast between the blue water and dark rocks.** Along this part of the coast, rocky outcrops break up the clear water and small bays. It was a lovely view to end my walk around Praia.

Tarrafal

The yellow Paços do Concelho municipal building in Tarrafal — **I stopped to photograph Tarrafal’s town hall.** The yellow Paços do Concelho has brown shutters, a red-tiled roof, and a clock above the entrance. I liked seeing the green mountain rising behind it.

Mural of Amílcar Cabral painted on a building in Tarrafal — **I stopped when I recognised Amílcar Cabral on this wall.** Cabral was a key leader in the independence movements of Guinea-Bissau and Cabo Verde. I liked finding this striking portrait as I walked around Tarrafal.

Tarrafal drinks menu with a wide selection of caipirinhas — **I was surprised by how many kinds of caipirinha were on the menu.** There were flavours like passion fruit, mango, and lime, along with some combinations I hadn’t seen elsewhere. Grogue Velha, a local sugar-cane spirit, was listed too.

Saint Amaro Church in front of Tarrafal Square — **I visited Saint Amaro Church, opposite Tarrafal Square.** This historic church stands out with its white façade, clock tower, and cross. I liked the way it opens onto the square.

Carneiro com massa de milho with rice, served in Tarrafal — **I tried carneiro com massa de milho, a typical Cabo Verdean dish.** The cornmeal, or massa de milho, made it different from a stew I might have elsewhere. It cost just 2,000 escudos—around US$2—and I thought it was very good.

Cidade Velha

Rua de Banana street sign on a stone wall in Cidade Velha — **I spotted the Rua de Banana sign on a stone wall.** Just beside the church, this street is considered the first road built by Europeans in sub-Saharan Africa. It dates back to the early Portuguese settlement, making this small sign a marker of an important part of Euro-African history.

Rua de Banana, a cobbled street between historic houses in Cidade Velha — **I walked along Rua de Banana, a quiet cobbled street.** The old stone houses and road are remarkably well preserved. I appreciated the care taken to protect this historic part of Cidade Velha.

Small fishing boats waiting offshore in Cidade Velha — **Small fishing boats were waiting offshore.** I watched the boats sitting just beyond the shore, with the open Atlantic stretching out behind them.

Ruins of the Sé Cathedral above the old seafront in Cidade Velha — **I came across the ruins of the Sé Cathedral beside the old seafront.** The cathedral is now in ruins, but its remains still stand above the water and offer a glimpse of Cidade Velha’s past.

The Pelourinho stone pillory in the main square of Cidade Velha — **I found the old Pelourinho in the main square.** Enslaved people were beaten at this stone pillory. It stands as a stark reminder of the brutality of slavery.

Travel notes

Getting around

Public transport was very accessible. In Praia, I paid 200 escudos for a city taxi. The bus to Cidade Velha cost 200 escudos, and the public bus from Praia to Tarrafal cost 600 escudos.

SIM cards and cash

I bought a UNITEL SIM card at the airport and it worked very well. I also had no problems withdrawing cash from ATMs with my Visa or Mastercard.

Walking around Praia

I felt safe walking around Praia. It is a small place, so getting from one part of the city to another did not take long.

ASKY and paper tickets

If you fly with ASKY from Cabo Verde and transit through Togo, carry your paper ticket. On my trip, I received only one ticket, which caused a problem in Togo. I had to wait for someone to take it to a desk and print a new boarding pass. ASKY did not handle the digital ticket smoothly.